And many times, orders are delivered the next business day! Our in house parts are manufactured following strict quality standards in our warehouse in Ohio. Parts such as hydraulic cylinders, pins, bushings, sheet metal, track adjusters, booms and dipper sticks are all ready to ship same day that they are purchased! With less time to wait for your shipment, you will be able to get back to work as quickly as possible.
Did you accidentally purchase the incorrect part? We offer returns and exchanges here at Broken Tractor. To proceed with a return, please call us toll free, and we will provide you with return authorization and a step by step return process for your convenience.
Decal - Case Eagle Decal, 2 inch. Part No: R Decal - Case Eagle Decal, 4 inch. Decal - Case Eagle Decal, 6 inch. Alternator - Don't see the Alternator you need for your tractor?
Just call us at Single wire with built in regulator. Will fit most tractors pre Part No: ADR Part No: 8NL Battery Thermal Wrap - This thermal battery wrap is used to keep your battery warm. It is 60 Watts and measures 28 inches long. Part No: BTW Battery Thermal Wrap - Watt, 36 inches long wrap to keep your battery warm.
This is a universal part. Verify Measurements before ordering. Coil - This universal automotive style coil is 28, volts for a 12 volt system, 2.
This is a reprint of the original manual that has exploded views of all parts on the tractor with numbered pictures giving great detail on assembly and disassembly. It also gives you a guide with numbers for ordering parts. Part No: MAG6. Replaces Champion N12YC. NOTE: Verify spark plug type before ordering.
Part No: AL Spark Plug - Standard tip, 14mm thread,. Starter - Don't see the starter you need for your tractor? We probably have it! Just call us at with your make, model, engine cubic inches CID and number off your old starter and we will see if we can find it!
Customer must stamp numbers. Terminal Kit - Deluxe solderless terminal and connector assortment. Includes female slip ons, oval butt connectors, ring connectors, male slip ons, spade terminals, and wire splice. Part No: B1SB It easily adjusts. Comes with stones. Call for replacement stones. Piston Ring Sets - Don't see the correct ring set for your tractor?
We need the following information to correctly find the set you need: 1. Number of engine cylinders, 3. Cylinder bore size, 4. Verify measurements before ordering. Part No: CHR. It has an extended curve on the outlet.
Part No: MC Muffler Clamp, 3 - New Clamp for 3 inch outside diameter muffler inlet. Muffler Clamp, 4 - New Clamp for 4 inch outside diameter muffler inlet. Muffler Clamp, 5 - New Clamp for 5 inch outside diameter muffler inlet. Rain Cap - This rain cap is for a 1. Rain Cap - This rain cap is for a 2. Rain Cap - This rain cap is for a 3. Rain Cap - This rain cap is for a 4. Part No: WC Rain Cap - This rain cap is for a 5.
Stainless Steel Clamp, 2. Air Cleaner Filler - Fits many air cleaners that use steel wool type filler. Custom manufactured mesh. Part No: S. Fits some Carter UT Series carburetors. Used with flair fitting, not compression fitting. Part No: 9N Carburetor Float, Zenith - This Float is used in the following Zenith Carburetors: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , Part No: CS.
Being a universal may or may not look like the picture. May say "Choke" or "C" or nothing. Part No: CC Fuel Tank Liner - For all fuel tanks. One quart Fuel Tank Liner covers tanks up to 12 gallons.
Once cleaned, this tank liner will prevent further corrosion inside your tank. Fuel Tank Screen - This Fuel Tank Screen is used with most stem-type sediment bowls to further protect against debris in the gas line. It has a 0. Made in the USA. Part No: CR. Hourmeter - DC voltages from 12 volt thru 36 volt nominal. Heavy duty glass-reinforced polyester body. Internal shock shields and grommets protect movement from shock and vibration damage. Part No: HM Hourmeter, Analog - 2 inch, black.
Can be used on any tractor with a 12 to 24 volt electrical system. Oil Line Adapter - Oil Gauge fittings may be different even for the same models. Replaces OAB. Total of pieces in 6 sizes. Part No: CHB Hitch Ball LB - Hitch ball. Quick Hitch, Category I - Comes assembled complete with hardware. Easier hookup, spring loaded locking device. Adjustable top link ball bracket.
This is ONLY for tractors that have, a three point hitch already installed. This additional charge will be added to your order. Part No: HF Universal Drawbar Lock - For Cat.
Prevents drawbar from rotating. Part No: DBL2. Includes filter element. Part No: 1A Replaces OEM - R1. Replaces OEM R1. Hydraulics: 48 inch overall length Part No: HM Universal Pressure Gauge, Hydraulic - Lb. Glycerin Filled. Plexiglass crystal.
Hydrostats will tolerate NO dirt as the commutator plates in the drive pumps are brass and score very easily. If ANY abrasive was allowed to enter the hose as you fed it into position you will be doing a rebuild on the piston pump.
Sadly it sounds as if that may be the case as you said it worked before you changed the hose. The plate and the piston barrel mating face and slippers on the pistons shoud all be checked for scoring.
The systems are self bleeding so that is not an issue. A good mechanic and a precision flat surface that cannot flex with grit wet or dry with some oil as a lube and some patience can get them working again. I have done it many times. Where is that piston pump your talking about located and is this sumthing that can be done without tearing the whole thing apart?
I have rebuild many automotive engines and restored a couple cars, doing all the work myself, but i am lost at how these machines operate. Any info on this would be great and is this an easy fix? T he tandem pumps are bolted directly to the plate on the bell housing and have all the drive hoses fastened to it. The cab should be rolled ahead to gain access, you really need a service manual to even start this project. The tandem pump has two drive sections, one right, one left. Not to question your abilities as a mechanic but hydrostatic pumps are simple in theory but somewhat complicated to get back together, getting the swash plate in right can be a bit tedious due to the design.
You may consider having a pro do it or just learn your way through it. Last edited: May 2, If the problem follows that new hose from side to side, I would suspect that hose or fitting is restricting something. I know nothing of this machine but that only makes sense to me Glen Bell , May 3, Thanks again for the response. Yeah the hose is rated at psi so that should be good. The problem is in the front part of the tandem pump, the side closest to the motor.
I have a thick parts manual with the breakdown of all the parts that go into this thing. I was just curious as to weather i would need any speacial specific tools to tear this thing apart and reasemble. I guess worse case scenario i could pull the tandem pump myself and save the price of labor there and just let a professional rebuild it. I would be checking a few pressures before ripping it apart - charge pressure at least. I have a couple pressure guages, on goes to and the other to Anybody got any pictures or diagrams where i can tap in to to check some pressures?
Joined: Jan 16, Messages: 34 Occupation: landscape, project manager Location: midland, ontario. Have a new hose made at a hydraulic shop. If the problem followed the hose it must be the hose. Something is wrong with the new hose! Taje the original hose with the hole to the Hydraulic shop so they can match it. Joined: Feb 12, Messages: Location: Kansas. I hear this same story over and over after guys have hydrostat hoses made and usually what has happened is when they cut the hose to length they do not blow out the debris and then when the hose is installed the debris goes right into the pump and damages the port plate and the rotating group.
I usually pull the pump group apart and end up resealing it, replacing the port plates and lapping the rotating group if it is not damage very bad. Then the motors need to be resealed at least and cleaned good if no damage is found and all of the hoses flushed out.
The hose builders do not relize the damage the debris can do in a closed loop hydro system.
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